Showing posts with label Chantilly. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Chantilly. Show all posts

Wednesday, May 20, 2020

Le Secret de Chantilly - Antonin Carême rencontre Boucher



Depuis plusieurs jours, je travaille sur la traduction de mon roman, Le Secret de Chantilly. Mi-conte, mi-roman historique, ce livre se base sur la vie du célèbre chef, Antonin Carême et sa relation avec l'énigmatique Talleyrand.

C'est merveilleux pour moi de voir cette histoire - qui d'ailleurs est bien Française, même si elle a été originalement conçue en anglais - prendre une toute nouvelle forme. Petit à petit, je découvre mes personnages pour la première fois, comme si le fait de leur rendre leur langue maternelle leur redonnait vie.

L'un de mes personnages préférés, c'est Boucher, le maitre d'hôtel de Talleyrand. Dans ce passage, qui est l'un de mes préférés, Antonin qui a seize ans rencontre Boucher pour la première fois.

Note: Pour l'instant la ponctuation suit les règles de dialogue anglais.

Un après-midi, alors que je me dirigeais chez M. Rose, Avice vint me trouver en disant :
  « Antonin, l’un de nos clients les plus estimés voudrait te voir. Il est dehors, près de la diligence. Tu dois aller lui parler tout de suite.
  — Maintenant ?
 — Oui, oui, dit Avice. Ne lui fais pas attendre. Il représente notre client le plus important. »
  Je me précipitai hors de Bailly, encore revêtu de mon tablier. Je vis un homme dans la quarantaine avec un visage rond et doux et une perruque poudrée. Je le reconnus pour l’avoir aperçu à plusieurs reprises auparavant, commandant des gâteaux pour des banquets ministériels. 
  C'était la première fois que j’avais l’occasion d’examiner ses vêtements de près. Sa chemise de lin était d’un tissage exquis, et une cravate blanche épousait son cou avec élégance. Avice n'avait pas menti; l'homme portait des chaussures à boucles et une longue veste mauve satinée. Il sentait la lavande et avait un air soigné comme je n'en avais jamais vu, même parmi les bourgeois qui accourraient régulièrement chez Bailly.
   « Monsieur Carême, me dit-il en s'approchant. Vous êtes bien le jeune homme qui livre des pâtisseries au Palais Royal ?
  — Oui. Oui, c'est moi. » J'essuyai mes mains sur mon tablier, l'air un peu déplacé. Je n'avais pas la moindre idée qui était cet homme ou ce qu’il voulait. Il semblait revenir d'une autre époque. Les gens portaient-ils encore ces culottes et ces bas de soie ?
  « Monsieur Avice me dit que vous vous dirigez vers vos cours de pâtisserie.
  — Oui monsieur, c'est sur rue Grange-Batelière.
  — Je marcherai avec vous », répondit l'étranger d’une voix aimable.
  Ses paroles s’écoulaient agréablement comme s'il fréquentait des nobles ou en était lui-même un des leurs.  Mille questions me traversaient la tête en remontant la rue Vivienne.
  « J'aime votre travail, monsieur Carême. Il me semble prometteur.
  — Merci monsieur ... monsieur ... »
  Il avait fait preuve d'un tel effacement, malgré son rang, qu'il ne s'était même pas encore présenté.
  « Boucheseiche, répondit-il. Vos pâtisseries – elles sont beaucoup plus légères que dans de nombreux établissements parisiens. Je l'ai tout de suite remarqué. Je dirais que ce sont parmi les meilleurs auxquelles j’ai goûté. Certaines améliorations pourraient être adoptées, certes, mais pour la plupart, je suis très impressionné. Est-ce que vous savez qui je suis ?
  — Non, monsieur Boucheseiche.
  — Il fut un temps où je dirigeais les cuisines de Louis Joseph de Bourbon, prince de Condé. Oh, c'était il y a des années, bien avant les événements du 14 juillet. Beaucoup de choses ont changé depuis. Le prince ne réside plus dans son château à Chantilly. Il est à présent en Angleterre. Mais pour avoir servi la maison Condé, je suis en quelque sorte le successeur de Vatel. »
  Il avait parlé doucement et sans emphase, mais je restais stupéfait par ses paroles, et mon enthousiasme eut raison de moi.
  « François Vatel ! J'ai lu beaucoup de choses au sujet de ce maître d'hôtel ! Il a servi Nicolas Foucquet ! C’était un grand chef qui inventa la crème Chantilly. »
  Le regard de M. Boucheseiche tomba sur moi. Il semblait m’évaluer et prit un air grave pour un instant. Je retrouvai aussitôt mon calme :
  « Je veux dire heu... c'est tellement... intéressant, monsieur Boucheseiche.
 — Appelez-moi Boucher. Monsieur Carême, vous vous trompez. Vatel n'a jamais inventé la crème Chantilly.
  — Ah bon ? » Je me sentis rougir.
  « Mais non. Pas du tout. »
 Boucheseiche sourit à son tour. Un silence incommode suivit alors qu'il m'examinait. À quoi pensait-il ? Je devais avoir l'air d'un idiot.
  Il sortit de sa longue réflexion. Ses yeux bleus se posèrent tendrement sur moi :
  « Un jour, murmura-t-il, je vous révèlerais peut-être le secret de Chantilly. »
 Et avant que je puisse me remettre de cette étrange remarque, Boucheseiche prononça ces mots magiques :
  « Seriez-vous intéressé à travailler pour moi, monsieur Carême ? Je supervise des banquets pour une personne d’une haute importance. Le monde que je vous propose de rejoindre est plus grand que tout ce que vous connaissez. Mais… qu’y a-t-il ? Vous ne vous sentez pas bien ? »
 Je m’étais arrêté de marcher. Je ne pouvais plus respirer. Je regardais Boucheseiche comme s'il était une vision de rêve.
  « Pardonnez-moi, monsieur Boucheseiche.
  — Boucher, rappela-t-il.
 — Pardonnez-moi, monsieur Boucher. C’est que… je sens que cela ne peut pas m’arriver à moi. C'est presque… presque comme dans les contes de fées. »
  Il me contempla en silence avant de dire : 
  « N'est-ce pas ? » Il reprit de plus belle, « La révolution, monsieur Carême ! Nous vivons à une époque qui évolue si vite. Vous étiez garçon de courses il y a quelques années… Et maintenant ! Maintenant, vous êtes sur rue Vivienne, et on vous mande de venir travailler avec Boucheseiche venu droit de la grande Maison Condé. Oui, vous avez bien raison. C'est semblable un conte de fées. »
  Son visage prit alors un aspect mélancolique. 
 « Et pourtant, souvent, ajouta-t-il sa voix teintée de regret, même les plus beaux contes de fées connaissent une fin tragique. Monsieur Carême, j'étais autrefois à l’emploi d’une princesse qui possédait tout, tout ce que son cœur désirait, et ce qui lui arriva, je prie le ciel, ne frappera jamais même les plus vilains laquais. »
  Il se redressa avec autre sourire généreux. 
  « C'est peut-être un peu trop pour vous aujourd'hui. Je vous laisse réfléchir à mon offre. Je reviendrai un autre jour pour vous parler d'éventuelles conditions d'emploi. Il y a beaucoup à faire et cela va prendre du temps. Nous ne nous presserons pas. Après tout, l'homme que j’ai l’honneur de servir aime bien prendre son temps. Au revoir, monsieur Carême. »
  Toujours le soufflé coupé, je regardai le mystérieux Boucher rejoindre sa calèche, alors qu’il me laissait dans tous mes états devant le seuil de chez M. Rose. Mon cœur n'avait jamais battu aussi vite. Je transpirais d’émotion, et pour le reste de l’après-midi, tous mes efforts pour me concentrer sur les leçons de massepain de M. Rose furent en vain.
 J’appris le nom de la princesse à laquelle Boucher avait fait allusion. La malheureuse princesse de Lamballe avait été mutilée par une foule violente pendant l'une des périodes les plus sombres de la révolution. Elle qui avait été mariée à l'homme le plus riche de France, du jour au lendemain, sa fortune avait basculé.
  C'était ce que Boucher avait essayé de dire. Que la révolution avait tout changé. Tous les tournants du destin étaient possibles.
  Pourtant, je n’arrivais toujours pas à comprendre. Comment un garçon de cuisine sorti d’une gargote, près de la barrière du Maine pourrait-il travailler avec un homme comme Boucher qui avait jadis connu une princesse ? Comment pourrait-il être instruit par ce maître d'hôtel qui avait autrefois servi la maison Condé ?
  L’arrivée subite de Boucheseiche dans ma vie était comme un rêve devenu réalité. Il apparut devant chez Bailly quand je m'y attendais le moins. Sa première visite fut brève, mais elle me bouleversa pendant des mois. Après avoir livré son message, il disparut aussi soudainement.
 Je ne le reverrais que l'année suivante quand il me conseilla de changer de boutique et de travailler avec Gendron. De cette façon, expliqua-t-il, je détiendrai plus de temps libre et je deviendrai pâtissier libéral.
 Un pâtissier libéral ! Moi ? Les idées tourbillonnaient dans ma tête à la perspective de cette nouvelle profession.
 De nombreux contes de fées ont une marraine dotée de pouvoirs magiques. Cendrillon en avait une. La Belle au Bois Dormant en avait plusieurs. Ces personnes apparaissent quand on s’y attend le moins, agitant leur baguette pour faire des tours de magie. Elles allègent les douleurs et offrent un nouveau lendemain. Elles créent quelque chose à partir d’un rien et vous laissent avec un sentiment d'incrédulité. 
Comment cela pouvait-il m'arriver ? L’avais-je mérité ?
  Après un peu plus d'un an chez Monsieur Bailly, Boucheseiche était devenu mon parrain. Mon conte serait aussi merveilleux que n'importe quel autre. 

Thursday, August 22, 2019

Understanding Talleyrand

Talleyrand Portrait


This August I lost myself in Volume I of Talleyrand's Memoirs. One passage stood out and moved me to tears.

Whether are not you are familiar with the 19th century French statesman does not matter; this passage is worth knowing. It is a rare moment into the heart of the enigmatic Talleyrand who for years has baffled so many historians.

It took place in 1807. By then, as Napoleon's foreign minister, he had long been titled Prince of Benevento and gifted with the principality of Benevento, in southern Italy. He knew how to flatter and reason with the French emperor but there were limits to his influence of which the statesman was well aware.

In that year, Prussia had just been defeated by Napoleon's army. The Prince of Benevento attended deliberations at Tilsitt; these would decide the fate and treatment of fallen Prussia.

It so happens that there is another character in this story. It is Queen Louise of Prussia - that is, Louise of Mecklenburg-Strelitz.

Louise of Prussia

Queen Louise of Prussia deserves another post to herself. She was to die of a mysterious lung illness three years later, at the age of only 34. Centuries later, at the time of the Nazis, she would be revered as the epitome of all qualities that German women should aspire to. But it is 1807 and in this story, she is thirty-one years old and she is in a quandary.

Napoleon, famed for his misogyny wasted no time in alluding to the Queen of Prussia's infidelities - a gross slander given the Prussian King and Queen were very happy in their marriage. Meanwhile, Prussia faced potentially harsh economic sanctions after the war; it was up to the King to plead in favor of his country. But seeing that Louise was several months pregnant, he suggested that his wife should instead plead in favor of her people, in the hope that Napoleon, touched by this charming figure of maternity - one of the most beautiful women of the period - would soften somewhat and prove more conciliatory.

Louise hesitated. Why would she wish to appear before this emperor who had insulted her and placed public doubt on her virtue? She hoped that her husband was right. Perhaps if Napoleon saw first hand how kindly and honorable she truly was, he would retract his poor judgement of her character.

Recalling the events at Tilsitt, Talleyrand writes, "I was indignant of everything I saw and everything I heard but I was obliged to hide my indignation."

When she settled into her apartments at Tilsitt, Napoleon paid the Queen a visit. After flattering her beauty while she tried to pass on to other subjects, Napoleon turned to the King and said "How could you dare begin a war with me, I who had already conquered so many powerful nations?" The defeated King made no answer but looked upon Napoleon severely. It was Louise who replied on behalf of her husband. "Sire, it was permitted to the glory of Great Frederick II, to deceive us as to the extent of our powers; we were deceived; but it was so ordained."

Queen Louise of Prussia 
by Vigée Le Brun, 1801

Talleyrand writes that Louise's usage of the word 'glory' was, in his mind, fortunately placed. He found it superb. Evidently the word was not used to the glory of Napoleon, but rather to another Prussian king from a past century. Talleyrand, never shy of using wit to taunt Napoleon, reveals that he later repeated the Queen's phrase often times, until the piqued Napoleon told him one day, "I ignore what you find so pleasing about the Queen of Prussia's words; you would do well to speak of other things." Typical.

But returning to 1807.  All the efforts that Louise made to obtain concessions for her country were in vain. Napoleon remained inflexible. Losing half of her territory, Prussia was to enter many years of suffering, famine, and the state of things grew so severe that everywhere, women abandoned their children.

But it is Talleyrand's next revelation that moved me.
"I was indignant of everything I saw and everything I heard but I was obliged to hide my indignation. And so all my life, I will remain grateful that the Queen of Prussia, queen of another time, was willing to perceive this."
Willing to perceive - the phrase Talleyrand chooses is so important. One can readily perceive, that is one thing. But to permit oneself to perceive is, in Talleyrand's eyes, to take a step further. If one permits oneself to see, one is willing to go against one's convictions and to combat one's prejudices (in this case, prejudices against Napoleon's foreign minister; against the vanquishing French; against the enemy etc...) For Talleyrand, to be granted this understanding was a precious thing and he felt grateful for it.

He narrates the event at Tilsitt and the sentiments they evoked, in these terms,
"If upon reflecting on my life, many passages are tedious, I recall however with great sweetness the things she had the kindness to tell me, and those she almost confided in me, "Prince of Benevento," she said, the last time I had the honor of escorting her to her carriage, "there are only two people who regret that I came here: it is me and you. You are not upset, are you, that I shall take this opinion back with me?" The tears of tenderness and pride that I had in my eyes were my only response."
Louise had been unsuccessful in her quest and she knew that Napoleon would not help her country. She also still felt the emperor's insults. With those words, she admitted to Talleyrand, the French foreign minister, that she regretted having come to Tilsitt, and she confided also that she could see right through him: that he did not like what he had witnessed, and that he was filled with sorrow for her, and also wished she had not come at all.

When I read this passage, I was astounded by Talleyrand's sensitivity to having been understood. It seemed to him that this understanding, arising from another, especially in this extreme post-war moment, was a rare event, one he deemed important enough to feel grateful for.

But he felt much more than grateful. He was moved by Louise. I absolutely had to write about it and give it the attention it deserved because little or no emotion has ever been reported as having come from Talleyrand.

When trying to understand a person it is often insightful to know what it is that moves them, or brings tears to their eyes. I noted that during the entirety of Volume I, Talleyrand remains mostly unemotional. He is overwhelmingly cerebral. He displays warmth during only two instances: when he relates his relationship with the unfortunate Spanish princes sequestered at his chateau of Valençay, and when he narrates his encounter with Queen Louise of Prussia. The latter is the only time he mentions tears.

For Talleyrand, a man of mystery, a man so reserved and elusive that he would often be maligned, nothing would seem so precious than to be perceived kindly despite all appearances. For he was proud, that is certain.



Saturday, August 4, 2018

Chantilly: A Tale of Carême


I wish I were setting off to the Hofburg Palace in romantic Vienna, but that will have to wait until 2020 when I am in Europe. For now, I am heading to friendly Brisbane where family waits. I have my fourth novel, CHANTILLY, on my Kindle and I can't wait to put on the hat of reader. I am bound to be horrified and realise that there is still much to do, but that's life. I can't see this novel being released for a while. Who knows, it might even be released in France. And so it should! It deserves to be born in France. Marie-Antoine Carême would demand nothing less. 

I have published only three novels, but each time it is the same. I dream up the cover long before the writing is polished. I imagine this book beside a tea set. It has a mint jacket, a familiar pastel hue in 19th century estates. That frivolous word, Chantilly, is a splash of white, its generous curves  dancing just above the middle of the cover.  Blush, peach and light pink flowers bloom across the page, perhaps just above the words "A Tale of Carême". Something like that. Would you have cake with that? Please do.

I've written a blurb too. My goodness, I am terrible. Who does that? 

So you pick up that taunting mint delight and flip to the back to read the blurb. A story about a chef, huh, you mutter as you twirl the tiniest golden spoon in your Assam tea. And hell, why not. 


"From rags to riches, an abandoned child from the worst back streets of Paris will rise to become France's first celebrity chef. 

A heartwarming story of friendship and cake, Marie-Antoine Carême's imagined biography has all the elements of a classic fairy tale.

From the finest patisseries of rue Vivienne, to the dreamlike chateau of Valençay, and all the way to the palaces of Vienna, Carême is swept up in an extraordinary journey, serving desserts for princesses and tsars alike.

But the man who invented the modern toque and revolutionised French cuisine is baffled when Mr Boucher, an ex-maître d'hôtel for the House of Condé, promises to reveal to him the secrets of Chantilly.

Along the way, to help him, is a downtrodden flower vendor, a crippled gastronomic critic, sequestered Spanish princes, and the richest man in France.

But it is the influence of one man that will remain as unforgettable as this wonderful tale.
Because in Carême's words, as in all fairy tales, there is always a prince."

There is always a prince.


A fairy tale, huh. A fairy tale about a 19th century chef. You lay the teaspoon on the pretty saucer. You take a sip and feel a warm rush. And then, it hits you. You realise that you would love a slice of that buttery sponge. And maybe lashings of Chantilly to go with it.

Please do.


Friday, July 6, 2018

An Author's Rant


"Dwelling for months in the forest, in forced isolation, 
she had given birth to this masterful trickery of the mind."  
- Julien's Terror

For all those gentle Goodreads peeps who entered the latest Julien's Terror giveaway, and found themselves unlucky, fear not. I will be running a Bastille Day freebie.

For five days, from Thursday 12 July to Monday 16 July, Julien's Terror will be FREE on Amazon Kindle. This is for all Amazon territories, not just the US.

There were 1555 US entrants and three winners will soon receive their print copy. I have to admit I set up this giveaway in the hope that it would reach those with an interest in the setting and subject of the novel. I hope the winners will enjoy Julien's Terror and are kind enough to post a review on Amazon. (or Goodreads!)

Now bear with me as I want to share a glimpse into my latest novel.

While writing Julien's Terror, I couldn't help but notice something. A little background first. The story is set during the French Revolution, with focus on that narrow period from September 1793 to July 1794 called the Terror, and also during the years following the Terror, which saw the rise of Napoleon and the changing landscape of Paris.


It is erroneous to believe that after the fall of the Bastille on 14 July 1789, change happened overnight and that the people of Paris suffered no more hunger. The Declaration of Human Rights changed little economically. There were still bread shortages resulting from crop failures and extreme bad weather the years before. There was still inflation. In fact inflation worsened in 1795. Following the Terror, after years of social tension, of political and economic uncertainty, there was this surge, this desire for affordable pleasures.

All of a sudden, with the emerging bourgeois middle class, everyone in Paris began to take an interest in feasting like a king, in visiting newly emerging restaurants and cafes, and in feeling special through the consumption of a gastronomy that had once been the privilege of nobles.


It was also a time when the chefs who had once served aristocrats began to offer their creations to the wider public. And then something happened. Dalloyau, the famous pâtisserie chocolaterie, opened its first store on 101 rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré. Back then, it was actually called "Maison de Gastronomie", the House of Gastronomy.

It so happens that in Julien's Terror, my main character, Marguerite visits this store to purchase cakes before something tragic and quite mysterious happens. But I'll say no more...


That same Dalloyau store still stands today in its refurbished glory. I ate a Mille-feuille there during my visit to Paris last year.  Dalloyau is also open in many parts of the world, including Japan and the Middle East. When the first store opened in Paris, in 1802, it was a sensation. For the first time in restaurateur history, customers could "take away". They could purchase cakes and bring them home to enjoy.

One man was paying attention. About a year later, in the winter of 1803-1804, he would open his own pâtisserie boutique on rue de la Paix. He used his boutique as a shop front for his rising popularity as a reputable pastry chef, and for creating his lavish pièces montées destined for diplomatic dinners.

That person was none other than 19th century chef, Marie-Antoine Carême. Carême is barely mentioned in Julien's Terror, because you see, I was saving him for later...like a dessert that I was not yet ready to share.

While writing Julien's Terror, I observed the workings of my mind at all times. What had I just written? First, the mysterious Marguerite enjoys Carême-inspired vols-au-vents at her wedding, then she orders cakes at Dalloyau in Paris, later she sits down at Caffè Florian in Venice, and last she savors a succulent strawberry tart during the traditional strawberry month of May. She really gets around this Marguerite. Julien's Terror is not a frivolous tale, I assure you. Yet those frivolous ideas were flowing, and I couldn't help but tune into them.

It was clear. I was obsessed with cakes.


I was not only obsessed, but I was seeing parallels between Napoleonic France's preoccupations with all that is pâtisserie and gastronomy, and our own present preoccupation with fine pâtisserie - especially high teas, but also pastel-colored maccarons, Croquembouche, the lot daintily presented on porcelain belonging in the 18th and 19th century. This nostalgia is no coincidence. We want to go back there! Wedding cakes today are taking on flower decorations like never before.  Old-fashioned flavours like lavender and violet have returned. That whipped-vanilla-cream word, Chantilly is now in vogue in the English speaking world. There is a resurgence for that sugary time, that sweet indulgence of the 19th century when all the ladies of Paris were aspiring to do exactly what Marie-Antoinette had infamously uttered (a gross exaggeration), and eagerly practising what she had hinted to when she told them, or so they think, to "eat cake".

That's when it struck me. That's when the idea for Chantilly: A Tale of Carême was born.


I am two-thirds of the way through the first draft and I've been eating cake like never before.

If Julien's Terror proves too macabre for some readers, then Chantilly will be a gently whipped delight. Both historical novels cover the Napoleonic period. But whereas Julien's Terror is often distressing, psychologically intriguing, and speaks of real life horrors, Chantilly is rich in sentimentality, a fairy tale written for the heart. And most of all, it celebrates friendship and gastronomy.

I can't wait to share it.